015 – Corky Carroll Surf Legend, Artist, Musician

By Greg Finch

podcast

Really excited to have Surf Legend, Artist, and Musician Corky Carroll on the Surf Strong Show.

Here's a bio of Corky from his bluemango website:

The greatest competitor of California’s Golden Age and surfing’s first real pro was five-time US Surfing Champion Corky Carroll.

Corky was right in the middle of much in surfing. Surfing in front of his family's beach house, he wanted a more durable swim trunk. He approached nearby Katin Surf Shop with his request. Nancy and Walter Katin got to work and created an industry.
As a student at Huntington Beach High School, Carroll took surf safaris with good friends such as Mark Martinson, Robert August, Mickey Munoz, Billy Hamilton and Mike Doyle. When Endless Summer was released, he travelled promoting the film.

Working for Hobie Surfboards, Corky found his niche interacting with the customers instead of in the back of the shop. In the water, Corky was so promising that Hobie Alter decided to sponsor him, paying Carroll to use and promote Hobie Surfboards.
During the mid-’60s noseriding era, he was as good as anyone. He was a champion paddler with keen wave judgment and a competitive spirit that usually paid off with high-scoring performances. In 1968, he won the Surfer Poll Award as the best surfer in the world. Few disagreed. “Of everything I achieved in my surfing career, winning the Surfer Poll meant the most to me,” Carroll said. “To be named the best by the people was the greatest honor. It is one of the only trophies that I kept for my kids.”
Corky was also at the forefront of the short board evolution, making the transition from long boarding that others could not. His Mini Model was the first production shortboard in America, and his Deadly Flying Glove model furthered the evolution.
Carroll was a great contest surfer, but he was also a gutsy big-wave rider. He surfed Waimea and huge Pipeline and he was in the water at Makaha on the day Greg Noll paddled into the largest wave ever ridden in 1969, pre tow. “I only rode one wave though,” Carroll said. “It was a monster, at least 300 feet as I saw it. I also got caught inside three times that day and spent hours swimming in.”
Carroll was one of the first to convert to twin fins in 1971 and was featured in a number of surf films in the ’60s and ’70s, including MacGillivray-Freeman’s Five Summer Stories.
When competitive surfing lost some of its luster in the early ’70s, Corky Carroll reached into his grab bag of talent and diversified into an array of livelihoods. He taught himself to play the guitar and was soon in the studio producing albums of original music. He wrote several books, spent 10 years as advertising director of Surfer magazine, six years as a tennis pro and a couple of years as a ski instructor. All the while, Carroll never relinquished the surf scene. An inductee into the Surfing Hall of Fame, he now operates his surf school in Costa Rica and is a fabulous surf columnist.

About Greg

Over the 25+ years Greg has been a coach a lot of things have changed in the fitness industry.

 
The one thing that has never changed for him is a pure drive and joy to help others Surf Strong For Life.


He is a husband, surfer, and coach, but mostly Dad.


He is much more enjoyable to be around after a good surf & finds writing in the third person hilarious.

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